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thanks for the response. It seems far enough away that it is highly unlikely to reach the big trees area. Stranger things have happened, i guess.
CHP SAN ANDREAS: Closed Roads-Mountain Ranch Road, Sheep Ranch Road, entire town of Mountain Ranch, SR-26 Moke Hill to Ridge Rd., Ridge Rd.
CCSO: Mandatory evacuation East of HWY 49 up HWY4 to Avery and North to Mokelumne Hill and West Point.
Alert: ADVISORY Evacuations are in place for the ARNOLD area.
Advisory only at this time.Info from Calaveras County Sheriff
There isn’t much (if any) discussion of the Butte Fire on this forum. The fire is serious and heading towards highway 4 in the area of Murphys. I was in Arnold yesterday afternoon and ash from the fire was falling to the ground. If I was up there now, I would have my gas tank filled up and prepared to move out. I don’t want to sound alarmist, but from what I read on the net and hear on the scanner, containment won’t happen anytime soon.
Dave
Fremont CAI am going to try the eco net valve. thanks for the research on the various options. I agree the best way is a hard line system by a plumber but for my setup a electric motor actuator would work the best. I will let you know how the install goes.
We had the same problem at our house in Arnold. To turn the valve, you had to go under the house. Russell Peffer designed a system that placed an extension from the valve thru the wall of the foundation. I then cut a hole in the deck and made a trap door. Then I could turn the valve from right by my front door.
Can anyone comment on if there is smoke coming over to the bigtrees area from the butte fire? If so, is it uncomfortable or just smells like fire?
Thanks
Funny you should mention Saul Plumbing – I had them out to repair some other issues and we discussed electric valves a bit. He (can’t remember the name now) said some loved them, but others didn’t like the noise from the solenoid style that need power on to stay open.
I’m not too worried about lack of power; all of the ones I’m looking at have a method to manually control them if power is out. I’ll just be unlucky if that happens when I need it. 99% of the time we have power.
thanks for the comments.
I agree with “Tortuga” about calling a plumber. A good one is Saul Plumbing in Avery. They’re really good. They did my whole place when I built it, and installed a new water heater.
ScottWe ski-leased a place with electric shutoff. The real estate agent detested the system. If we were leaving, and power was out, the agent had to crawl under the house to drain the pipes since there’d be no heat… or hope power would return before freeze set in.
So, when we bought, we opted to have mechanical shut off and drain valves extended into the living space so we didn’t have to crawl under the house or deal with what-if-there’s-a-power-failure.
We were quoted three options — vertical risers into the house from current shutoff valves (into Living room), relocating valves to middle of house and putting levers in sink cabinet so not visible, or external valves on the side of the house accessed from the deck.
You might ask a couple plumbers to suggest solutions for you.
Has anyone had any experience using electrically actuated water valves? I’m looking at one to ease the process of turning off the water when I leave the cabin. It’s not fun crawling under the house in the dirt to turn it off and on. I’ve found 2 that look interesting to me. The first is an add on actuator (http://www.econetcontrols.com/EBV-105-water-shutoff.php). It looks fairly easy to attach and would not require any plumbing modifications, but I question whether it would be robust enough to last for a long time. I already have a zwave controller, so it would be easy for me to use.
The second is a true automated valve (http://www.valworx.com/product/electric-actuated-lead-free-brass-ball-valve-34-12-24v-acdc). That one would replace the current shutoff valve and looks like it would last a very long time.
I’ve seen others that are used for automatic shutoff, but I think I prefer the 2 above (see http://www.diycontrols.com/t-automatic-water-shut-off-valves.aspx). I don’t particularly want something to detect a leak and turn off the water. I’m more interested in robust water shut off for when I’m not at the cabin.
Also, does anyone have any experience with turning off the water at the meter? I’ve heard that in some places the water service or county must turn it off and that homeowners are not allowed to do so. Is that true in Calaveras as well (CCWD)?
We’re in the process of cutting up quite a few trees that had to be cut down over the past couple of years and would like to stack the cut wood on racks so it can stay dry once it is tarped. If anyone has a rack they don’t need any more, please respond here or send me a private reply with your email or phone number. Thanks.
