Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
We just got a hot tub down here in the flatlands. As mentioned, the key is whether it’s hooked up to 110 or 220 volts. Our spa heats up 2 degrees per hour on 110 and 6 degrees per hour on 220. Because the pump has to run during heating, you save money with 220 because it heats up quicker.
So, depending on how often you come up to the mountains, you could keep the spa at a lower temp, during non-use, then turn it on when you arrive.
I imagine there is, or should be, some way to turn it on from the telephone or inter-web before you come up… 😉
For asphalt, it’s all about proper subgrade (dirt) condition and aggregate base (base rock) thickness and compaction BEFORE the asphalt is installed. If you are installing over soft, organic soil, you need more aggregate base thickness and/or thicker asphalt. Asphalt is relatively less expensive because most of the installation is done with heavy equipment, versus manual labor.
For concrete, it’s all about thickness and reinforcing (wire mesh or rebar). A strong concrete slab will distribute heavy vehicular weight over a large area which is good for soft subgrades. It can also be given a rough finish for better traction on steep slopes. But concrete is generally more expensive because forms and screeds need to be installed by hand and the concrete has to placed, vibrated and finished by hand labor. Concrete needs to be properly cured and the joints are more for controlling shrinkage cracks during curing, and not for hot/cold expansion.
Asphalt needs to be maintained at a hot temperature prior to placement, so the distance to the batch plant is important. Then it’s just a matter of compacting it in lifts and letting it cool.
Concrete needs the proper mix proportions (portland cement, aggregate, sand and water) and needs to be transported and placed well before it starts to set up…
As noted, the black asphalt will absorb sunlight and melt snow quicker than light colored concrete. But it also gets hotter in the summer sun.
You should get a cost proposal for each method and ask how far the material has to be trucked in (for quality control). Don’t skimp on thickness in either case. For concrete, 5 or 6″. For asphalt, 2 or 3 inches over 6″ to 8″ of compacted aggregate base.
Sorry to carry on, I’ve worked with both materials in my many years of civil engineering.
The bottom 20 feet of my driveway is cement and the remaining 130 feet is pavement. Both installed in 2000. I’ve found the cement become icy faster and stays icy longer than the pavement. Based on this observation I’d suggest if you have a reasonably level driveway which gets lots of sun cement would be just fine. But if your driveway is shaded or steep I’d be looking at pavement myself.
Also, not all concrete is the same. It is very important to have the right cement mix to withstand freeze/thaw cycles. Poor mixtures will have surface chipping (aka spalling). So if you decide to go with concrete be sure to discuss this with your concrete contractor.
I have a HotSprings Jetsetter (smaller model with 220 gallons of water) installed in 2000 with 220V. I keep the tub at 102 degrees year round. The monthly cost of electricity is $15 and the cost doesn’t seem to vary much winter vs summer. As you noted, every model will have different electric usage based on size, amount of insulation and whether it is 110V or 220V (220V uses less electricity for the heater).
Hope this helps.
Carl
Good asphalt with proper installation lasts a very long time. However, properly installed concrete also lasts a long time. I think it’s just a matter of personal preference more than anything else. There’s a fairly new cabin near us with a concrete driveway and the surface is chipped pretty bad. I have been told the owners use salt in the winter so that would explain the driveway’s poor condition.
I use 2″x2″ metal drip cap. I bend it by hand to slightly more than 90 degrees, and nail it to the eave so it just barely hangs outside the vertical edge of the roof. The snow shedding usually does not hit. Of course it cannot handle big storm events, but works well to shed the drip drip drip of melting snow, and small rain events.
Well… That was silly. Spent several hours disassembling the camera and trouble shooting only to finally figure out that I had neglected to reset a wireless adapter’s security settings when I changed my router’s security settings.
Everything is put back together now and should be working shortly.
joeI just noticed that apparently one of the cameras died on 10/18. I’ll have to take it down and remove it from the environmental housing to see if I can bring it back to life.
Not sure how soon I’ll get to that but hopefully before first snow.
joeI have not seen anything on the Cal Fire web site, but here is the latest from mymotherlode.com:
http://www.mymotherlode.com/news/local/225735/update-big-trees-fire.htmlOur driveway is badly alligator-d and has asphalt aliens. Probably wad not built right to begin with and needs a new underlayment not just resurfacing. On my walks I see a few cement driveways instead of asphalt. Any feedback on benefits and drawbacks? The cement driveways seem generally to be in better condition, though age is unknown. While expansion gaps seem to allow for winter freezing, I’d be concerned that a heavy truck delivery (2 cords wood?) Might crack cement? But is cement otherwise a good choice up Here just more pricey?
We are two year new owners and have a hot tub on site. With a few parts it should be operational again but since it has never run under our ownership we have no sense to cost to run a hot tub here. Could some folks share their hot tub costs? We realize there will still be a range based on our model, how cold the winter is and usage but general numbers on the web of cost in Alabama is not useful to here.
